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Occasionally, we see another human: a lone jogger, or some desert riders on quad bikes. But it quickly becomes apparent that Wonder Valley residents respect each other's desire for isolation. The drivers of the pick-up trucks that pass down our dirt road once an hour keep their gazes steadily ahead, behind baseball hats and shades.

Although the days are relaxing, I wonder how the girls will feel about the dark, silent evenings out here. Back home, our terraced house is a fairyland of night-lights, the girls' bedroom doors wedged to very specific angles, fears of burglars regularly used as an excuse for not going to sleep. But it appears that facing real dangers has eliminated imagined ones. As each day ends, they lie on the porch doing feverish paintings of the sunsets that break above our heads in great scarlet and purple streaks.

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They take my iPhone outside and dance to Primal Scream, and search a starry sky for the plough. Their normal bedtime DVDs lie abandoned. Instead, they play dominoes by the fire before collapsing in black bedrooms where they sleep till late the next morning. When the food starts to run out, we force ourselves to finally leave the cabin. The nearest town is Twentynine Palms, so we head there, stopping off to meet Jeff Hafler along the way. Their five-year-old son, Cash, whips the girls off in his electric car through mesquite and jojoba bushes to see his rabbits, while Jeff shows us round.

Although Moon Way Lodge wasn't built solely for families — indeed, its cool thrift-shop chic interiors are as likely to appear in style magazines and be used by movie stars on location — it gives parents the opportunity to enjoy the luxury of a solar-heated swimming pool, neighbours, complimentary breakfast and a loan of Cash's swings and slide.


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Inspired by Jeff and Mikal's decor, we spend the afternoon thrift-store shopping in Twentynine Palms. Unlike UK charity shops, these are sprawling yards of clothes, furniture, ornaments and household items, and keep the girls engrossed for an hour.


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  • They snap up Mexican lace dresses for a dollar and toys for a few cents. I buy presents to take home: a 50s cook's prayer wall hanging, and a plate covered in cacti and roadrunners. We have to think twice about taking our wild desert children into a restaurant after days without human contact, but after vigorous hairbrushing, they are decent enough to avoid ejection from the 29 Palms Inn , which sits under shaggy fan palms in a natural oasis.

    It's the rumoured weekend hideaway of many an A-list rock star and actor. We're here for the food, however, much of which is grown in the inn's own garden. Back in the glorious quiet of the cabin, we make no effort to leave till almost the end of the week. Under a spidery ocotillo cactus, the girls build a fairy garden from pebbles painted with glittery nail varnish; they act out a wedding in their Mexican dresses; and stage complex musical productions that mix Bollywood, High School Musical and their school nativity play. Finally, we persuade them out to Joshua Tree national park to view the yucca palms almost unique to the high desert here, named by Mormon settlers after the biblical Joshua, arms raised in prayer to God to stop the sun setting.

    Wistfully, my husband and I recall previous national park trips, when we headed off into the wilderness with our tent. A one-mile trail packed with tourist groups seems a shoddy replacement. The girls do us proud, though. They scramble up the over-large boulders with exciting names like "Skull Rock" and run amok among cacti. It is sunset when I notice something strange. These factors are similar to those you might use to determine which business to select from a local Yellow Pages directory, including proximity to where you are searching, expertise in the specific services or products you need, and comprehensive business information to help evaluate a business's suitability for you.

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